Friday, February 6, 2009

Les vacances d'hiver

Winter vacation takes place in February in France. This is not to be mistaken with Christmas vacation in December/January, nor with spring vacation in April.

There is no school during this time. The actual dates vary by region, but overall, students and teachers get a little over two weeks off. This is an ideal time for families to go skiing.

As for me, I may just be skiing in Ireland. Currently, snow is blanketing the Emerald Isle. The Dublin airport was shut down days ago. I fly to Kerry tomorrow where my friends and I will rent a car to see the winter wonderland that is Ireland.

I've been mentally preparing myself for driving on the other side of the car and road. This could prove even more cumbersome with ice slicked roads and Irish drivers unaccustomed to wintery road conditions.

After a two day rest/break from break in France, I'll be hopping another plane to Madrid to visit two of my wonderful colleagues from last year in Valladolid, Spain. Much of my Spanish has disappeared into the back corners of my brain, although words here and there can still be retrieved. I hope.

See you in March...

Sunday, February 1, 2009

American Under Fire

A few weeks ago, I gave a presentation on Chicago at a seminar for French English teachers. Essentially it was just a slideshow that I spent several hours putting together. I realized that my casual shots from summers past didn't really capture all that was Chicago. And as I am fond of the city, I wanted to represent it well, so I scoured the Internet for a diverse group of shots that included Obama, Biden, and the new Secretary of Education with school children, a sketch of the Great Fire of 1871 and the Chicago River dyed green for St. Patrick's Day.

The final shots of my slideshow consisted of deep dish pizza and polish sausage. One of the women in charge of the seminar is Polish and she was a little horrified at what we do to her culture's food. An Americanized sausage resembles a hot dog with neon green relish, bright mustard, ketchup, onions, and whatever else you can find room for.

That led the group of French teachers to ask me to spell the word "doughnut." Wondering if I'd fit their stereotype of a typical lazy American and spell "donut?" No way. Thankfully I passed that test.

After that I mentioned something about Obama's inaguaration on France's basic cable channel TF1. As soon as I said, "TF1" did the teachers flail their arms up in disgust. Not at me, but at that particular channel. Apparently, TF1 is the most American of French channels and none of them watch it. I briefly thought about FOX in the U.S., but then shrugged. I only have five channels in my French apartment so I can't really be picky.

It just so happens that TF1 is airing the Superbowl tonight at 12:25 am... I guess they're right.

Les cours du soir de français

I've been taking evening French courses for about two months now at a language school in Lyon. They take place on Tuesdays and Thursdays, conveniently the same days I teach English. Those are exhausting days, but I come home feeling great.

The teacher, Sandra from Nice, is excellent. She's got all the grammar explanations, can throw up phonetic symbols on the board in a clin d'oeil, and manages to involve everyone in the class. I think back to the days when I taught adults at night in Spain and how much more "off" I was as a teacher. My adult class was sometimes the fifth class I taught in a row, the preceding ones being those of eight year olds and indifferent adolescents or "ados" as the French call them. I never had any energy for my adults and they didn't seem to have any in return. Fueled with bottles of Coca Light, I'd try to make conversation for as long as possible until we had to get to the lesson in the book.

However my adults seemed content to simply converse and tell me about Spain. In my French class, Tuesdays are dedicated to grammar and Thursdays are set aside for conversation.

The class dynamic is similar to that of the first day of class as freshman high school students. Everyone waits en masse outside the door until Sandra arrives, greeting each other politely, then putting their heads down, taking phones out to text or check the time, waiting for the door to be unlocked. This happens every time. Sometimes a group of Spanish speakers form in the corner and clutter away in espangnol. At one point, there were two Hungarians who conversed quietly while we waited.

Mostly people don't say much because the class changes every week. People come and go and with each new face, one is never certain how much French anyone can really speak, therefore it's just easier to remain silent. With all the different nationalities, languages, cultural backgrounds, it seems easier and more interesting to watch from a distance.

During class, I sometimes have trouble understanding my classmates. Because a lot of words in Spanish are the same in French, the Spanish speakers will sometimes just pronounce the words in Spanish, a constant 'sssssssss' punctuating their paroles. The Vietnamese girl speaks very choppily like she's cutting each word with an axe. The Dutch girl speaks French with an American accent. The Iranian girl has an accent I've never heard before, and the English woman speaks in a rhythm as though her words floating from cloud to cloud. Up and down, up and down.

This is not to say, I speak perfectly, because obviously I don't. It's allowed me to see the difficulties French speakers have understanding foreigners. There are so many nasal sounds that at first, sound exactly the same, but can mean two completely different things.

I've been told I can write very well in French (thanks college education for all those French essays on Voltaire) but I have difficulty with grammar when I speak. It makes me think what it would be like if college professors focused more on "oral expression" in French. Something useful so that years down the road when we actually want to go to a French speaking country, we don't have to teach ourselves how to speak...

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Things Are Not Always What They Seem

Chasse is my roost for 9-10 months in France. No matter how often I travel or for how long I'm gone, I come back to Chasse. It's where two suitcases of my stuff is. It's where my job is, but it isn't completely where my heart is.
Chasse and I have a rollercoaster relationship.

One day, I'm on a pleasant walk up the forest road that leads to farms that sit on the edge of small cliffs overlooking Chasse and I see a baby lamb looking at me curiously from behind a fence on a green hillside with a chateau-esque building in the distance. Someone might drive by thinking I might like a ride down into Chasse so I don't have to walk. The thought is very kind, but my purpose is to walk. On days like these, I'm content to be there.
View from the top of my walk up the forested road leading to the countryside in the hills above Chasse.

Another day or possibly that same day, someone will stop their car and ask for directions while I'm wandering around and when I don't know where something is, they shake their heads, maybe even giving me the hand and a sigh as if they've already wasted enough of their time. Then, the train that I've planned on taking to get out of there, has either been "deleted" or leaves later due to more railway construction. Two or more of these tiny little events can cause a downward spiral so steep and fast that I've completely forgotten about the baby lamb.

As a fairly patient and adaptable person, this comes as a surprise to me. I had one of those days today. A black and white day, one with sun and rain, one with so much positivity and so much negativity that today seemed like two days.

I woke up to chainsaws trimming the trees in the schoolyard. It was okay, they started at 9, not extremely early. I decided to get up. With not enough food for breakfast, I got dressed, grabbed my huge plastic bag and walked to the grocery store. As I was shopping, my stomach growling, I ran into a colleague from school. Caught off guard while admiring my cheese options, I was at a loss for what to say. One of the nicest of my colleagues, she seemed pleased to see me and started chattering away. Some people I find easier to speak to in French and for some reason unknown to me, she is not one of those people. It's almost as if she doesn't completely hear what I say and therefore, I'm more likely to put my verbs in the past rather than the present or vice versa.

After my debaucle of awful French conversation, I walked home with my groceries feeling a bit down on myself for not being able to hold a smoother dialogue. I kept telling myself, that I was having an off-couple of days. I could barely concentrate in French class the previous night either. By the time I got home, I'd fallen onto the couch, leaving my grocery bag by the fridge. Feeling a little down, I just lay there until forcing myself to get to the post office where I had to mail my rent money.

It was a refreshing January afternoon. Not warm at all, but certainly brisk. I wandered around slowly, not yet wanting to go home after the post office. Walking past a huge building on the way to the train station, I decided to walk up some stairs to see what it was exactly. It's not possible to see from the street. I stumbled upon a miniature park, then found a sign for a music school and the youth and culture house. Most every city, village, or town in France has a maison des jeunes et de la culture or M.J.C. These centers usually have programs for children, adolescents, and adults, like artistic and sporty activities.

I went into the building, but no one was there, so I took a brochure. Chasse's M.J.C. offers:
judo, modern dance, shooting, badminton, gymnastics, hiking, art and decoration, yoga, ftness classes, gym "douce" (I can't translate this) 'soft or easy gym', and aqua gym. I had no idea Chasse had a pool or a M.J.C. I was also excited to learn that I could sign up for yoga classes on Wednesday nights. Just the particular night I was looking for some kind of activity, something to do in this sleepy town of 4,000 people. I plan on heading back there after pay day to sign up.

A bit more cheerfully, I walked home and ran into one of my students and his family. He was really excited to see me and greeted me with a chipper hello, baguette under his 9 year old arm. Seeing my students on the street is a fresh reminder that I'm here to help them with their English. A reminder of my purpose for being where I am.

Just as I entered the parking lot of the school, I saw an old-ish map that I'd never really looked at before. It said, Pays Viennois: Balades et Promenades. I did a double-take. After scouring my tiny seeming desolate town for places to walk, trails leading into forests, I had given up on local hikes. This map had a list of at least ten hikes, their length, and what one would see (chateaus, rolling hills, ancient churches, wildlife). There was only one that seemed reachable by foot from Chasse. The others were scattered and would require taking a bus or train to get there, hence a hassle.

I could see that the one hike nearest Chasse appeared to stem from the forest road walk I generally take past the baby lamb. Immediately I began daydreaming of spring morning hikes. And I wouldn't even have to leave Chasse (like I've had to for the past four months to see anything 'seemingly' noteworthy).

It appears that I should have looked a little closer and not just quickly scan over the place I call home for my 9-10 months here.

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Un Week-end Dijonnais

Dijon, minus the rainy subzero temperatures, was unexpectedly pleasant. Not given much international credit other than it's flair for mustard, this gothic city presented me and my fellow travelers with a walk through an age past, towering cathedrals with gothic spires, silent but knowing gargoyles, cobblestone alleys leading to hidden doorways.

Because the winter weekend made the city quiet, every little discovery felt like our own.

Have we stumbled into one of Grimm's fairytales? Almost, if only the pharmacie du miroir hadn't ruined the essence.
We had drinks and breakfast in this appealing strawberry shortcake colored maison. Not much is open on Sundays in France.

Anthropomorphs guarding Dijon's Notre Dame. Supposedly, centuries ago, one of the gargoyles fell and killed someone.


Notre-Dame de Dijon



"La chouette" (owl) leading tourists to touristy sights.




Legend has it that it's good luck to touch the owl on Notre-Dame's wall with your left hand.



Voila la chouette sans visage (here's the owl without a face)



My first cheese fondu



Fancy mustard shop that was too expensive for the likes of us. Instead, we tried a more "english assistant" friendly priced shop to do a mustard tasting with pretzel sticks from the friendly owner. He let us try "tarragon mustard" which was green in color and "black currant mustard" which was pink in color.


Inside the lower level of the archaelogical museum. We only had ten to fifteen minutes in here to warm our feet and explore the underbelly of the Abbaye St-Bénigne.




Gothic Cathedral of St. Benigne (1280 - 1314)



Studying the sarcophagi near St. Benigne



Polar bear spotting in Jardin Darcy. We saw a miniature version of this guy in the Musee de Beaux-Arts.



Dijon's version of the Arc de Triomphe

Saturday, January 10, 2009

Les choses sucrées que j'adore en France

If there's one thing the French do absolutely right, it's their cuisine...and that which comes from just about any pâtisserie. In honor of sweet French desserts everywhere, here are some that I've already digested (not all at once, of course)...


La tarte au chocolat avec un fruit d'amour

Chocolate cake (it was warm and gooey too) with a love fruit (the fruit has a very tart yellow berry center with inedible leaves surrounding it). All four of us ordered it and the waitress smiled in understanding, saying, "of course chocolate for the girls."


Un arc-en-ciel des macarons (rainbow of macaroons). These were from Carrefour (the huge grocery store) and weren't very good. However, these little guys have been known to adorn the sides and tops of cakes in pâtisseries everywhere and are absolutely divine when they are freshly made.

Finally, in the center is AJ's favorite tarte aux framboises (raspberry tart) and la tarte aux pommes (apple tart) next to it. And no, I didn't polish these off all by myself. I had a team of champion sweet tooths helping me out.

Hopefully more dessert snapshots to come...

20 Things I Miss About England...

1. Gaining one hour upon my arrival


2. The BBC, keeping up with Eastenders

3. Pub lunches and ales

4. Savoury pies (Sweeny Todd's in Reading)

5. Mr. Cod


6. Stone churches




7. Overly polite strangers


8. Tea with scones, clotted cream, and jam



9. Thames walking paths





10. London and it's Eye





11. The atrium pub where Christmas exploded and where Maggie and I had wine


12. Pub names like "Pavlov's Dog," "Great Expectations," and "the Hobgoblin"


13. Speaking English


14. Seeing James Bond in English at the cinema


15. Restaurants of all ethnicities


16. Cozy fireplaces, cushy chairs, and hot drinks after a long walk




17. Green grass during winter


18. Tiny English robins



19. The Globe Theatre



20. And above all, my friends there...